Wednesday 7 November 2012

Day 96 One-Hundred and One Dalmatian Coasts

Actually guys, there's really only one... sorry to disappoint those who've been here and know how amazing it would be to have places like this scattered everywhere.

I left Mostar on a rainy day, and arrived a few hours later in Dubrovnik, still on a rainy day. I was a little nervous about how to reach my guesthouse, Begovic Boarding, as I hadn't received any confirmation of a pick up, nor any further instructions on how to get there. I was so relieved to see a sign with my (admittedly misspelled) name on it being held by a lovely older man as I disembarked. The bus itself wasn't so bad, the countryside is breathtaking, but we were stopped four times for passport checks!

The hostel patio in the Sun!
A little discouraged with the weather, I spent my first afternoon poking around the neighbourhood of Lapad, and stocking up on groceries with the intention of saving myself the cost of dining out for the next few days.I caught up on some tv, and generally just took it easy. This lovely Australian couple introduced themselves while they cooked in the adjoining room, and we all drank wine and some kind of figgy ethanol they'd bought in Bosnia (huwaaaat?). They invited me to go down to the Old City (Stare Grad) with them the next morning, and with the plans in place, I turned in around 11. The next morning brought sun and warmth, and I dug out my summer clothes, taking full advantage. A kiwi tree grows right over the patio here, and one was ripe enough to supplement my breakfast, providing a fabulous start to what was sure to be a great day.

View of the sea from the walls.
The whole old city of Dubrovnik is actually a UNESCO world heritage site. I am shocked when I think back on all the things I've seen that fall within that category, especially in Turkey! It's also where the scenes of King's Landing, from the show Game of Thrones were shot! At one point while I was there I actually looked down at the same camera angle from which Stannis Baratheon's naval charge was filmed! We bussed down there and planned to meet up again after their tour was complete. I declined to go along, as it was not of the free variety, and instead opted for the slightly cheaper, and well worth it, walk of the walls. The two kilometer circumference of the old town is a beautiful view of the surrounding islands, of the red-roofed interior, and of the hills behind the city. Like the rest of the Balkans, this city was bombarded in the wars for territory, and 85% was destroyed. The restoration has been masterfully done though, and even if it isn't the authentic materials or anything, it's still really special to look down at what was once a bustling Roman settlement, medieval town, and pre-war city. The churches within the walls are gorgeous too, and though it was nice not to have to fight crowds of other tourists, it is easy to imagine throngs of excited beachgoers getting a dose of culture as they alight from their yacht tours. I would love to return in the summer to see the beachy side of Croatia and visit the islands, which I have heard great things about!
The Croatian flag in the breeze. The local name of the coutry is actually Republiska Hrvatska!
mmmm... Candied Orange Peel!

The wall walk took me only about an hour, as I did stop and take a few snaps here and there. I was lucky enough to bump into Toby and Kez again and I highly recommended the venture. I proceeded to work the city in a sort of mixed-up grid pattern, and wandered around the pretty cobblestone streets browsing. I caved and bought some sugared orange peel, a Croatian candy, and was stopped at a jewellry store and gifted with a lovely new bracelet to add to "my traveller's collection" of mementos. My accessories never match what I'm wearing, but I could care less - I've said it before, but it really is the people and the memories you make that you can take away with you on trips like this. Who knows what I'll be like next time I'm back here, and that bracelet will be a reminder of the person I was when I got it.

a sea of red roofs behind my shameless selfie. Hey,
when you travel alone you gotta make your own pictures!
view of the Old Town from the "hill".
I stopped at a cafe on the main avenue and messaged my new friends. They've been driving all around Eastern Europe in a huge orange camper van, free camping when they can and staying in hostels otherwise. It would be so amazing to take so much time away from real life when I'm married to just experience things like that! They joined me after their walk, and offered to buy me lunch, which was wholely unnecessary but really appreciated. We dawdled and chatted and shared stories for a while longer, before heading back to Lapad. They were off to Montenegro and Macedonia, before making their way to Turkey and back to London, where they have set up a base of sorts from which to work and make enough to keep going. If I had more time I would love to head south overland, saving Italy for another trip, but alas, I have a flight booked. Read my posts a few days back about NOT PLANNING. Seriously, this is another moment when I realize I could've done things differently. Ah well!
Incredible view of the mountains!

Looking over the whole town.
I met Jenny as we shared the kitchen to cook dinner. She had stumbled in that morning off a night bus from Zagreb, and done her own exploring. We chilled and drank wine (again...) and she told me about how she, in her early thirties, had up and took a long leave from her lucrative job in D.C. to come and do a world tour. She had found that she needed more time however, and was in the process of quitting altogether. It's incredible how many people I've met who share that mentality- "there is more to life than this, more to life than work." I admire those who could easily just stay set in their ways, set in their jobs, and instead see the world and travel their dreams.

Surveying History.
We woke up this morning and she dragged my lazy ass out to the old town again, where we climbed up the nearby hill. I wanted to call it a mountain, but as someone who has climbed Kilimanjaro, she insisted it was in fact a hill. There is a funicular that takes less ambitious tourists to the top for the view, but we were hardcore about it, and reached the summit in under an hour. It was another great day, and I was really hot by the top, but I won't be complaining when I reach Zagreb tomorrow and it's chilly again. I've enjoyed my few days of summery weather!

Down on the seashore.
While it wasn't quite warm enough to swim, we went down to the beach and dandled our toes in, before heading back home to cook again. I managed to make my groceries last the whole trip, and I think I'm getting better at this! It's a shame, because it is coming towards the end, but I'll pick right back up next time I go out adventuring! I catch the night bus up to Zagreb tonight, and hope to make it to Plitvice Lakes, a national park, tomorrow. A friend of mine that I met last year in Spain lives there and has promised to show me some nightlife, so maybe I can stop drinking by myself in hostels for a while...

I love you guys tons, it's crazy to think about how longs it's been since I've seen Canada! I will send news soon.

Once I get to Italy I can slow down a little (I hope) and get to know specific places. I guess this trip will leave me with a fabulous list of all the places I want to come back to! I need a job that combines the love of travelling with a little bit of earning power. I'm taking suggestions!

Love From Abroad.

The sunset in Lapad.

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